Offroad in The Kimberley

Leaving Broome for the second time we headed northeast towards Derby and the start of the Kimberley region. Camped for a night beside the Fitzroy river where the kids were nervous of seeing big salty crocs., but none in evidence. While there, we discovered that we'd lost one of the roof lights on the way from Cape Levique so some emergency repairs involving plastic bags and duct tape were carried out by the onboard bush mechanics. Outside Derby we stopped at the Prison Tree which is a huge hollow boab used at the end of the19th. c. as a holding station for aboriginals captured in 'blackbirding' operations to get forced labour for the pearling industry. Derby itself was not really the sort of place you'd want to hang around in either, so we stocked up and headed off down the Gibb River road – 650kms of dirt and flint track going through the heart of the wild Kimberley region (that which our camping trailer was named after – so the place to be!) There's only one fulltime petrol station and one store along the route so you need to be self-sufficient - or call in at cattle station homesteads. Our first night was at Windjana Gorge – no swimming here because of huge numbers of freshwater crocs. - not hugely dangerous, but not nice to swim with. We were beginning to experience real heat so trying to get used to the aussie technique of getting up at 5 – 5.30 am and doing any walking then, keeping in the shade for a bit, then venturing out later in the day (remembering that it gets dark here by 5.30pm). The 'keeping in the shade' bit that day was made easier for Gary my the fact that we met a couple who had a full coffee bar in their camper and proper coffee that they had shipped ahead of them as they toured around (G. has now commissioned them to follow us at a discrete distance!) In the heat of the day we then headed for Tunnel Creek where you could walk through bat caves to a pool on the other side of the hill for a swim in the river. We're at the end of the long dry season now so the water levels in the tunnel were not too high to wade through comfortably, but not high enough to hide the eels – and we didn't have strong enough torches to pick out the croc. eyes in the dark, otherwise we might have waded through just a wee bit quicker! Back for a shower in the open air tin shed – v. welcome and not normally available in national parks – even tho its the end of the Dry there doesn't seem to be any shortage of water, tho' some of the waterfalls are dry.
Next day we headed on to Bell gorge up 30kms of extremely hot, hard track but with a fantastic deep pool for a well-earned swim at the end of the gorge walk. We stopped at the one and only store for ice-cream and the most expensive diesel to date, then on to a cattle station for the night where we had the camp area to ourselves apart from a couple we had met briefly in Broome, so good campfire chat once the kids had collapsed exhausted from their exertions – too tired even to do the marshmallows!
Kate Here: Hi! So you have read what my mum said and now you listen to Me! The best bits at Charnley River Station was well all of it but, if you went to the toilet about 5:00pm to 6:00pm you would find bright Green Tree Frogs down the toilet in the bowl and if you flushed the toilet where the water comes out you would see lots of green legs pushing themselves back up. But the Frogs were not small, with their legs tucked in they were about the size of a saucer and with their legs out they were much bigger than a saucer. There were also lots and lots of little tame frogs living down the drain in the sink and they were so cute! There were some chickens that would lay eggs on your chairs and we got 2 eggs in the front compartment of the camper in Dads boxers! We decided that one night we would not cook so we went to the kitchens and booked in to tea and for tea we had...... Steak, Gravy and Yorkshire pudding! Yum Yum. For breakfast we had sausages and scrambled eggs! There were lots of pools just out side the homestead and we went to one called Donkey's Hole and there were three other pools further up and we went to the third one. The water was cold and very deep and I practiced my dives and Bombs! We also went to Dillie Gorge and it was good fun too. It was great fun and I wish we could have stayed longer. I will now pass you on to Dad.
The stations in this area can get cut off completely in the wet season for 3 – 4 months and it was very interesting to hear about how they plan for this and get in supplies and post (300kms on dirt tracks to Derby, and if the rivers are up, they need to have cars on either side and small boats to ferry across – or fly in, they all have their own airstrip!) The kids do school of the air, all internet now, with boarding school for upper secondary.

Manning Gorge to Home Valley 10th October.
Left Charnley late morning and drove out their 40kms private road to get back onto Gibb River. Can you imagine having a 40km drive, oh and 100,000 acres to tie in with the drive. Posties get about 6 letters a day delivered! We made it a whole 40kms to Manning Gorge which has a good swimming spot so there we stayed for the night, a mere 40kms over the paddock from Charnley, hardly worth the flit. There is a roadstation at Manning where you can fuel up with a 50% loading on Perth prices, but what is the choice?(still 70% of the UK)
We had 280kms to run which is a fair bit given the potential conditions ahead. Jenni conducted “school” on the hoof in the complete racket inside due to the corrugations. Vehicles around here really do get battered. However, just when you think you are pioneering, a road train comes into view thundering up the bull dust. Once you have survived the “passing”(they don't move or slow up) you then deal with temporary dust blindness for about 10-20 secs, a test of your nerve and faith.
Jen and I had one of our very infrequent arguments about a station called Ellen Brae whose sign said “visitors welcome”. We passed by 20kms before the navigator stated her disgust that we hadn't stopped, I joyfully turned around and drove back 20kms stating “do you think you're going to find an espresso and scone 250kms from anywhere woman?”. As I ate my scone I also found that the lady had large portions of humble pie available too, Jen rammed 3 portions down with the aid of a spurtle. Ellen Brae is highly original with the house having no walls after 3' and the kitchen completely open , only a roof. It does not rain here from April>Nov so no need and when it does, it comes straight down. Note the picture of the open air bathroom, still in daily use. The laundry is outside, a couple of sheets of tin nailed to the side of a tree, very quaint.
A bit further down the track I pulled over as my nose decided to bleed. While outside I noticed one of our camper wheels sitting at a very jaunty angle and started to investigate. Three Aussies promptly appeared before I got my hands dirty and had the wheel off in no time. A massive crack was found through the swinging arm (suspension/axle) which was a bit desperate. We limped along at 10kph to Home Valley Station where within 15mins there was a mechanic underneath welding us up. This would at least allow us to get to Kununurra 150kms away. Another heated phone call to the camper manufacturer to arrange for all the new parts to be air freighted. Over to Jack.

When we arrived at Home Valley Kate and I went straight to the swimming pool, we were in it for hours! We then went to the bar and played darts and had a drink. Then we saw the Olive Python and the bar man got her out and let her squirm all over us! She went up my sleeve then round Kate's neck! We had ordered dinner and we were playing cards and the Olive Python and the bar man served us and the snake was around his neck and followed the food down his arm! We played darts and watched a slide show and there were pictures of big rivers and bull catchers that are old Land Cruisers that have tyres on the front. Then the farmers drive the cars into the great big beast and knock it over and stay over it and then someone jumps out, slits its throat and ties it up! When we left we met Humfrey a fabulous Blood Hound. In the morning we met a calf that started to lick Mums knees and suck Kate's fingers. When the guy had checked the weld on the camper we dismantled camp and hit the road to El Questro!

Middle Lagoon

Bush mechanic here with wild tales of lying under the car or camper in bull dust, sand, camel dung or any other unsavoury surface to carry out a wee repair job. Having spent 4 nights in Broome, we now have a working toilet again after spending 6 hrs on and off stripping down the pipes looking for "stuff" it turns out its was broken and required a part from Brisbane. Replacement tyres for the odd shredded one from a mining road. A wee service to see use through The Kimberleys and loads of other stuff that you must be dying to hear about, but you can wait.
Once back to 100% we headed up Cape Leveque 200kms on mainly deepish sand to Middle Lagoon for a few nights R&R. The whole Cape is Aboriginal reserve and a good spot to visit as it certainly isn't busy due to the condition of the access road.
Our Magellan gps has been a good buy when we are off road as you can constantly find out where you are compared to where you think you are. Excellent for places like Cape Leveque.
We camped on the beach with about another 15 people within ¼ mile so privacy again no problem.
We had the kayaks out in the waves and off to a beach on the other side of the lagoon. On the way we would see turtles and distant dolphins. The waves at times were 8' which was good fun riding over them and plunging down the back. I was on my own one day when I was joined by five dolphins including a calf about 2' long. I stayed with them for about 3-4 mins keeping around 10' away which was superb to view them so closely while swimming.
Jen gave the tink pupils an aboriginal art class one day which they both enjoyed as they had all day to do the painting. They used dot painting on canvas having been in a couple of galleries in Broome to get the idea. They both did very well and the new masters have since been mailed to Scotland for safe keeping.
We met up with some locals from Broome and had a BBQ with them all. The following morning they took us mud crabbing up a creek when the tide was low. These crabs are huge, at least a 12” dinner plate across, not to be trifled with. The mission failed much to the disappointment of J&K.
On the way in to ML we saw a sign offering camel rides which sounded fairly original out there. We booked for 8am and headed out to find that it was us only and the guy that owned the camels. They also had baby camels just 6 weeks old which J&K were allowed in to see. The guide Lenni was hugely informative about nature and he gave us a good 2 hrs in the bush then on the beach. His house is on the beach 7.5kms of bay and not another house to be seen from his. The gave us a tour of their vege garden and cut some aloe vera which we have kept in the fridge for cuts, bites sun burn etc.. It takes these people 5-6 hour round trip to hit town for supplies, you don't want to forget your messages list here.
We visited Beagle Bay on the way down the track as we had seen the film about the nuns the week before in Broome. It was beyond comprehension being there and imagining Scots and Irish nuns in the 20-30's arriving into nothing, no town and establishing themselves. Naturally they would have dumped their wimples and bat capes and hopped straight into bikinis to keep the heat at bay.
Back on the blacktop hit Broome, then head for Derby and the infamous Gibb River road, 660kms of the worst corrugated surface.