Gary reporting. Arrived El Questro at a slow trot, crossing the Pentecost River - one of the few still with water in them at the end of the dry season. El Questro is a 1,000,000 acre station which has been developed for tourists to roam free in 4x4s up to lookout points and gorges. It has great gorge walks up the river bed(dry season) climbing over huge rocks, wading through 5' of water to continue the climb upwards. At the top there are some superb pools which you can swim in as reward, just as well too as it is humid here and always around 38o. There are fewer swimming opportunities all the time as we are in deepest croc country. Another plus point for El Questro was no flies or clegs which have been biting all the way along Gibb River.
Kate and I had a run to town one day(200kms return) as she required to see a doctor as she had sore, peeling feet. We were advised to go to the aboriginal surgery, which we did, and she was seen within ten mins. She had three doctors attending and one then phoned the state (WA) dermatologist who advised on the spot and prescribed. A terrific service for £20. The feet are getting better with icy bathing twice a day and some steroid cream. While waiting for Kate's result I enquired of a doctor about a lump on my arm, he then enquired of another doctor who prescribed the knife. Okay says I, what day? 'Now' was the reply, so onto the slab and out with the machete. 10 mins later he was dangling the cyst before my eyes. I had a great laugh in there and I am due back today to get the stitches removed. I asked if he could get the stitches set to look like a croc bite.
Back to El Q. We stayed four nights as there was no rush as we had to wait for the camper parts arriving. Met up with fellow tinks whom we had seen at the other end of Gibb River road and we managed to swap tales over a few beers and coffee. People either travel east or west so you do keep bumping into the same folk. It is a good thing as there's always a lot of advice on where to visit or avoid. I personally like to bump into Brad and Fleur as they are the proud owners of a fine espresso machine. They haven't appreciated yet that I tagged their caravan with a tracker. We aren't short of socials on our tour, no change there say the Comrie-ites.
As you might have been reading in the UK press Southern Australia is suffering from its 7th year with no rain. In sharp contrast to our expectations, up north here there's water a plenty, even at the end of 6 months of no rain in the dry season. Sprinklers run daily and there's no rush to get out of the shower. All this water is good as you sweat so easily you need to get hosed down.
Jen here to finish catch-up:
After our comfortable stay at El Q. and some great gorge walks and swims, we had to work out where to base ourselves without the camper while it was in for repair for a couple of nights. It was due to be in the workshop (100kms of rough track distant) by 7am Monday, so it seemed only right that we should book ourselves into a nice air-con room in the nearby Emma Gorge resort (still part of the vast El Q and another great natural pool spot) and the Janitor should drive the camper in while the rest of the school stayed put and made use of the facilities - the kids of course weren't so keen on the schoolwork before pool aspect! G returned by late morning and we headed cross country to Diggers Rest – a small 5k acre horse/ cattle ranch where we had booked in for a sunset ride, camp out in swags followed by a morning ride. It was roasting hot when we arrived and thought too hot for swags, so we opted for the bunkhouse (ceiling fan 1: stargazing nil).
The evening ride was glorious with the sun setting on the Cockburn ranges and such vast open spaces to aim at. Wallabies were boinging around and the horses were really frisky. The saddles were Aus. stock design with big leather lugs at the front of your thighs so you could stand up in the saddle and fling your lassoo!
The place is run by Roderick ( a leathery faced Aussie) and Alida ( an American who just called in for a couple of days riding 10 years ago – while waiting for vehicle repairs – and is still there!). We couldn't decide if the state of the kitchen and living area was the result of 10 years of 'woman's touch' on the previous, or whether Alida had gradually been worn down to these standards. Certainly I know a good number of people who would have gone hungry rather than eat anything out of the kitchen or the pans that the goats have been fed out of – environmental health meltdown! However the food was great! The following morning we were ready by 5am for the cattle muster. We decided that our horsemanship was not quite up to this so we went in the bullcatcher with Roderick. This is an ancient Landcruiser with the top taken off and a roll bar put on, plus old tyres attached to the front for 'nudging' the beasts. This was real wild west stuff as R raced round the ranch over incredibly rocky ground, over the top of termite mounds and small trees, narrowly avoiding larger trees, with the kids in the front seat and us adults 'riding' in the back, standing holding onto the rollbar and ducking and diving as appropriate. It took about 1.5 hours to round up the last of the wayward cows while the bulk of the herd had been gathered by Alida and Poppy (aboriginal help) on horseback. Back for breakfast, then the girls went for a ride while the boys went to help at the stockyard. I next saw G. splattered head to foot in blood (bulls'), as his job had been to release the gate once the horns had been cut off – (health & safety/ risk assessment meltdown!) We gave ourselves the afternoon off to go into 'town' (Wyndham – the most northerly in WA) and amazingly, in the one shop, found just the kind of shoes Kate needed for her sore feet! Don't tell the police, but the kids had a ball driving on the mud flats which are part of the dry season shortcut. Back to the ranch for another ride for the girls ( Kate had a bit of a fall but got back on), while the boys went to the billabong with Poppy and his mates for some barramundi fishing – didn't quite get enough to feed us all 'tho! Would have been easy to adjust to this way of life for a bit longer but we had to get back to civilisation and pick up the camper!!
Kate Here: Hi we went to a place a few kms out of Wyndham. It was called Diggers Rest. It is really just a old farm but there are bunk houses which you can stay in. Alida and Roderick who own the farm have 70 horses, 220 goats, 60 cows, 1 dog, 15 chickens and a frill necked lizard. If you want, Alida will take you out on a horse ride through the trees and scrub and she lets you do trots and canter. Mum was on Brownie, Dad was on Cat, Jack was on Tails, I was on Johnny and Alida was on Buddy. Johnny was a very good horse but he didn't really like another horse getting to close to his bum. It was fun going out because we could see the sun go down and the sunset was lovely and pink. Jack I don't think really liked it, well the trotting and cantering anyway. It was dark when we got back and we had a lovely tea. The next day we all got up at five because Roderick was going out to muster the new cattle he bought a few week ago (So that he could put a tag in their ear)He used an old land rover with the top ripped off. There were two tyres stuck on he front of the bull bars. He would drive at about 60 mph through trees over termite hills and knock some baby trees down. He is doing that because he is chasing his cattle towards Alida and Poppy (His helper but Poppy is a boy)Who were on horses helping. Eventually all the cattle were caught. Some of the cows had to get their horns sawn off. Dad and Jack went to help Roderick and Poppy do that and Mum and I went on a horse ride with Alida. Johnny wasn't in a very good mood that day so when we were cantering Johnny cantered over to Buddy and kicked him I couldn't stop him so then he dodged away from Buddy thinking that Buddy might kick him back and somehow, I don't know why, but I fell off and landed on my back and it got bruised so that I couldn't bend down or sit properly. Its better now though. There lots of goats and some of the baby ones played around the outdoor lounge area. They were so cute! I have some photos of them. Jack and I were allowed to feed them (Give them their milk). My favourite one was Biddy and was only 1 month old. Her mum and brother had died and Alida now looks after her.